LIBYA: 17th February Anniversary Six Years On

The following article was written in collaboration with my friend and colleague, Susan Sandover who is the author of the book ‘Libya a Love Lived a Life Betrayed 9/36’ 

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Daily we (an American mother with a Libyan husband and a British Libyan widow) read, hear and see the ongoing tragedy and horror of the war in Syria and yet Libya barely warrants a mention in the British and American press. It seems as if the Libyans are the forgotten. Photos and video footage are seen periodically of migrants being saved in the Mediterranean but we have yet to read an article on the potential tinderbox situation in Libya.

The 17th February marks the anniversary of the commencement of the fight to overthrow Gaddafi but will this date warrant a mention in the international media? Most likely NO. The war finished quickly in just 8 months. Today what remains is the daily episode of the Libyan Game of Thrones represented by an assortment of grey-haired men in their expensive suits with allegiance to either diaspora, area, tribe or a religious faction all vying for power. But what of the ordinary citizens of Libya? With 45% of the population aged under 30, the majority without hope of work, they are the dangerous forgotten. Consequently,  crime is on the rise and coffers from the old family loan system have long since dried up. The infrastructure that was failing under Gaddafi is now at crumbling point or virtual collapse. The morale of the people is so low that they too are beginning to join the thousands of migrants endeavouring to reach Italy and Europe by crossing the Mediterranean in the hope of a better future. 

Aside from tribal infighting, the cancer ISIS, whose roots had lain hidden during the Gaddafi era now has found its chance to emerge and spread its tentacles. Libya’s porous borders allowed pockets of IS to establish themselves in three branches in Libya; Tripolitania in the west (primarily in Sabratha), Cyrenaica in the east, and the Fezzan in the south of the country. Sirte has only recently been cleared of IS by forces backed by the GNA (Government of National Accord) and supported by the United States which targeted ISIS with over 500 airstrikes between August 2016 and January 2017. Although IS combatants were removed from Sirte, many Jihadi warriors managed to escape, disappearing into the desert. Will they once again go into hiding, waiting for the chemo therapy to end and then resurface? Libya’s marginalised youth and migrant Africans entering the country are all potential recruits and this needs to be recognised before the Libyan dormant bomb erupts, as it will, if help is not given to the country. 

Despite the abundance of problems facing Libya, some hope remains. Organizations, focused primarily on women and youth are emerging. On offer are empowerment workshops, training for the health sector, networking for entrepreneurs, as well as opening centres to provide services for psychological, social, legal and health problems. Reconciliation will only happen with concerted efforts from within Libya, as well as with help from abroad.

By ignoring the ongoing situation and hoping that it will go away will only result in another Iraq and Syria disaster of horror, instability and further turbulence within the MENA region. Peace and reconciliation should be led by the Libyans hand in hand with the West so that Libya can be reunified and the IS cancer can be eradicated from the country. The alternative is unthinkable. The new President of the United States seems to believe that by building walls and banning Libyans from entering the United States that this will solve the problem and prevent the spread of IS  and terrorist attacks. We only wish this were true, in fact it may be encouraging those Muslims who were born or who are now living in the United States to feel marginalised and draw them to embrace radical ideals.

Will the Libyan youth be celebrating the 17th February anniversary? What are their aspirations today? They must be given hope or they will become the lost generation and potentially join radical groups who offer them salvation. The alternative is unthinkable while the reality is an unstable quiet which is shattered by periodic gunfire, bombs and tanks as Libya once again has returned to a questionable, unpredictable future.

By: Susan M. Sandover & Therese Martin

A busy start to the year

So far 2017 has been a whirlwind. In my last post, which was about a month ago, I mentioned that my mother was scheduled to have surgery. She checked into the hospital as planned for what we thought would be morning surgery and home by the afternoon. 

Unfortunately there were complications. She had a reaction to some of the medicine that was used and went into anaphylactic shock. Her blood pressure dropped to almost nothing and then when they gave her other medicines to help with that her BP went sky high - her blood pressure was up and down, up and down. She also started to develop pneumonia. She was in ICU for two days while they stabilized her blood pressure, but to complicate things the steroids she was given caused her to go into steroid psychosis. 

Psychosis.... another word for crazy. She didn't sleep for 3 days straight. The whole time hallucinating that she was in Paris, in California, at a spa, there were water taxi's floating past the window and hundreds of dogs on the ceiling. Once she said there were hundreds of babies and quipped 'I don't even like children!' Her feet moved as though she were walking, walking, walking...she walked all over town, telling me she was turning left here and right there and asking 'Why is there a cow on the corner? The poor thing is soaking wet from the rain!' She folded her sheet for hours, folding, unfolding and folding again and again. I kept trying to bring her back to reality, reminding her that she was in the hospital. She didn't know who I was. At one point she thought I was a Jewish woman from California. She kept asking for people who had passed away; her sister, a neighbor, my brother. A few times she became very, very angry and violent, but mostly she was just agitated and wanted to be someplace or go someplace.   

Throughout all of this she refused to use a bedpan and became incontinent. The nurse told me quite often there is no turning back once the elderly get this way. I insisted they put a potty next to the bed and got my mother to sit on it a little every day. I never thought I would be potty training my mother! Eventually the effects of the medicines started to wear off, but it was six days before she finally realized where she was and was able to recognize us. 

My mother is home now and is continuing to recover. We have a home health nurse and physical therapist coming to the house. She's back to a regular bathroom routine - thankfully! However, as soon as she gets well enough she will be back in the hospital for more surgery. This time the doctor has assured us that they will not be using the medicine she had a reaction to and they'll be taking all the necessary precautions to keep her well. 

When I asked my mother if she remembers anything from her hospital stay, she said no, nothing. We have videos of some of it and she was amazed when we showed them to her. I'm thankful that I was able to be here for my mother and praying that her next hospital stay will be uneventful. 

There are no water taxi's floating by the window!

Ending up 2016

The end of the year is fast approaching. When I look back it seems like it was a long year, but it passed so quickly. Since we got back to Florida it seems I have been running non-stop. 

First, there was Ibrahim to get settled in school. He's been changed to a different school, this time one that hopefully has a program suitable for him that will address his autism and ESOL issues. After a bit of a runaround, he finally started, but only a week before the Christmas break, so we won't know how things really go until he goes back after the holidays. 

Mom had a whole slew of doctor appointments, check-ups and tests scheduled for when I returned. Some of which had positive results, but unfortunately, there was the disappointing news from the cardiologist that an artery in her left leg has a blockage that needs to be cleared, so next week she is scheduled for surgery. I'm glad that I'm here to help my mother through this. It's a bit overwhelming and right in the middle of the holidays, but 'It is what it is" as my mother says - she's been through this quite a few times already and knows the routine.

Mom's cat died last week. Stump had been in my mother's life since he was born and lived over 20 years. He spent the first 20 years of his life hiding under my mother's bed, only coming out for my mom. The past year I managed to befriend him - bribing him with treats and kindness. He spent the last year of his life somewhat sociable! I think he might have had some dementia - maybe he forgot to be afraid. In the end he was just skin and bones. He will be missed, but we really aren't sad that he is gone. He lived a long life.  

Even though we've been pretty busy the last few weeks, we've taken some time to relax and enjoy the lovely Florida weather. December is almost always warm here. The other day we took some time to visit my father's grave. The cemetery is so peaceful, lots of huge moss covered oak trees line the lanes alongside the graves. My father died the day after Christmas 20 years ago, and this makes getting through the holidays difficult for my mother. 

Bay Pines Memorial Cemetery, St. Petersburg, Florida

We took some time to sit along the water and feed the birds at the park. 

The Point at Bay Pines Memorial Park

We head for the beach as often as we can to watch the sun set. I noticed that they added a few more benches at the beach we usually frequent. We are so blessed! 

Indian Shores, Florida

 I'm not so sure about New Year's resolutions.... it's difficult to plan that far into the future... one day at a time. 

Best wishes for a Merry Christmas to all of my friends, family and readers who celebrate. 

The Challenges of Traveling to/from Libya

When it was time to start planning our trip back to Florida there was so much planning to do. There were so many decisions and choices to make. The trip going to Libya had been difficult and there had been the unpleasant experience with the airline losing my bags. Even though the luggage wasfinally recovered (one bag after 18 days!) it was still a big hassle. I decided to fly a different airline - this time going via Tunis and Frankfurt on Lufthansa. It worked out being the cheapest flight too.

But how to get to Tunis? Which airline should we use to fly out of Tripoli? I had flown Libyan Airlines and Afriqiyah in the past, but had only heard of Libyan Wings. There are a few other airlines but these three seem to be most popular - but which was the most reliable? I wanted to be on time and I most definitely did not want to have lost luggage again. I decided to throw out some  polls on social media to see what people thought. The results were quite surprising. 

Facebook Group Poll

The poll on Facebook showed that the overwhelming majority found Libyan Wings the most reliable and there were some interesting comments that I will share here (without names).

"Libyan Wings by far!! I have now flown on all three, and ONLY Libyan Wings actually leaves on time, and you queue properly at check in and to board the plane, there is no pushing and shoving, their food is WAY better than any of the others - and the attitude of the staff is professional at all times!! The first time in a long time that I have actually felt I am on an actual airline able to compete at international level - will never fly Libyan Airlines or Afriqiyah again!!!"

"None. Libyans have no sense of timing they just go with their flow. Let their planes take off when they feel like it. true they r up against the odds. And make do with what they have. Which is an excellent quality. But even before the war and during gadaffi times their track record was lousy"

"I tried all of them. Wings is hardly ever late and are quick to sort any problems"

 "Afriqiyah flight times are better for me. Wings is prompt but at ridicolous hours for me"

"Currently Libyan Wings . Experience wise i will go with Libyan Airlines , but for time and punctuality Libyan wings have the priority."

 "Well , for starters ! Libyan Arab Airlines (LAA), is Late As Always !"

"My last 3 experiences with them (Libyan Arab Airlines) I was delayed between 9 to 13 hours Afriquiya werent far behind"

"Have flown with them (Libyan Arab Airlines) a few times and never an issue. I guess it just depends, kind of like every other airline."

Twitter Poll

The poll on Twitter had similar results with Libyan Wings coming in first and Libyan Airlines and Afriqiyah both similarly low. The difference here was in the comments, with some being rather political.

"you need safety fly Libyan airlines ,have good maintenance ,don't compromise safety with commercial interests next Afriqiyah"

"well, remeber??wings owner is a former ALQAEDA member, &thy uses yr money to bombs&kill innocent ppl in #benghazi :)"

 "Libyan wings it's company was made to wash belhaj money it's illegal company"

 "So far, acqs. say Libya Wings is the most reliable/decent service/good planes. Pity abt the owner."

With the results of the survey in mind, I decided to give Libyan Wings a try. Of the three airlines, only Libyan Wings allows you to book your tickets online. The only problem is that you cannot pay online, you have to go to one of their offices to do that. Still, this was helpful and booking the tickets took only a few minutes. I only booked one way flights because honestly, who knows what will happen in Libya. You really cannot plan very far in advance. I'll worry about the return tickets when the time comes.

We arrived at the airport three hours before the flight. Mitiga Airport is a very small airport. Built in 1923 by the Italians, it has been mostly used as a military base over the years - by the Italians, Germans, British, Americans and Libyans. It now serves as Tripoli's international airport since 2013 when Tripoli International Airport was destroyed during clashes. There isn't much to do there while you wait but there is a small counter where you can purchase coffee and snacks. Internet is available for a fee. We waited until they called our flight. While waiting friends and family were calling to see if we were OK and to say that Tripoli was 'maglooba' - upside-down. Fighting had broken out between militias and no one really knew what was happening. 

We were called to go through security and were funneled into another waiting area. We waited and waited.... and while we waited, we could hear the sound of explosions in the distance. The airport and airline staff were running back and forth, checking on things outside, all the while they maintained a very professional attitude. Finally, over an hour after our flight was supposed to have departed we were all told to move back inside. We thought that maybe the flight was being cancelled, but they assured us that they only wanted us to go through security one more time. So back in we went. They checked everyone's passports, tickets, and x-rayed our bags while we walked through the metal detector. A short while later we boarded the bus to take us out to the plane, got on board and left Libya a short time later. 

We were late, but the staff were pleasant. Normally, when I travel through the airport in Tripoli there is pushing and shoving and even occasionally a fist fight! There was none of that this time - maybe everyone was too worried about the fighting going on outside the airport to do any fighting of their own inside. 

The flight was nice. The plane was new and comfortable. The staff were professional at all times and it was obvious they were well trained. Even though the flight was less than an hour long we were given a meal; bread, cheese, chicken, salad, cake and juice. I would definitely recommend Libyan Wings.

We arrived in Tunis and our luggage arrived with us. We had a long wait until our flight to Germany. I sent the kids to buy Internet time which that turned out to be a rip-off. First, the machine swallowed our money without giving us a card so the kids had to find someone to give us our money back (which they didn't want to do initially), then when we finally had the card, the connection kept dropping and was mostly useless. We ended up getting free Internet at the airport cafe's wifi while we ate dinner. 

Lufthansa checked our bags through to our final destination... I looked at the bags as they went away on the conveyor belt and said a small prayer that we would see them again. The flight was fine. We were full from our meal at the airport, but had another meal on the fight. We had a five hour wait in Germany. The airport was comfortable, there was free Internet and shops to look around, but the bathrooms could have been better. There were long lines to use the bathrooms and they weren't very clean. I finally gave up and found a wheelchair accessible bathroom and that was much better. If we were there longer I think I would have spent some money to go use the VIP lounge, but it wasn't really necessary.

Our flight to Florida boarded and took off on time. Lufthansa kept feeding us! Snacks, a meal, more snacks, another meal. Germans must love to eat. There was Internet on board (for a fee) and a place where you could charge your phone. Lots of movies, music and games and of course the flight map. It was a ten and a half hour flight. We were really happy to see the end. Lufthansa was much better than our past experiences with British Airways. I think in the future we will use Lufthansa.

How much longer? We are almost there! I can even see Seminole! 

Going through customs was a breeze. All of our luggage arrived and out we went to wait for my daughter Sara to pick us up. We had left on Thursday evening and arrived on Friday afternoon. It was a long trip, but we made it.  

The sun was setting as we drove through rush hour traffic from the airport.

Here we are....... Home Sweet Home!

Home! - now to get through jetlag.

Learning a Lesson in Cultural Differences

In America when you go on vacation you might stop to pick up a few souvenirs and some postcards to send your friends and family. No one expects you to bring them back anything. If you do it's appreciated, but it's definitely not expected. It's different in Libya. Traditionally, when you have been traveling you should bring back gifts for your family and friends. You don't have to go overboard, something simple will suffice. Everyone expects something. Unfortunately, with the amount of relatives, even getting something small and inexpensive adds up - you have to consider the amount of money (the dollar very high now) and space in the suitcase (23 kilo limit). Over the years I've mostly dispensed with the gift giving with the exception of getting something for my mother in law - she always gets presents.

This time, before I came back I asked her if there was anything she needed or wanted. She requested body lotion and hand cream. She said only cheap imitation toiletries were available in Libya and she didn't like or trust them. That was easy enough! I chose some brand named lavender scented creme and chamomile lotion - with the added bonus that they were on sale and I had a coupon. I added a few pairs of shoes and some other things I thought she might like and Ibrahim found a big cloth carry bag for groceries that he said would be perfect for carrying home bread from the bakery. Handmade soaps are all the rage these days in America. I picked some lavender out and added that to the bag - it smelled so good. 

Every travelers' nightmare... lost luggage. We arrived in Libya with just our carry on bags. All of our checked bags had decided to take a trip elsewhere. I filled in the necessary claim forms and hoped for the best. I apologized to my mother in law and told her she'd have to wait for her presents. She said it only mattered that we got here safely. 

Through a friend we managed to find a contact of someone that worked at the airport in Tunis. He'd look out for our bags and if he found them he would arrange to put them on a flight to Libya - for a price. That was fine, we just wanted the bags. Two of our bags appeared a few days later, but the bag with the gifts was still nowhere to be found. We suspected that it might have been stolen, but hoped for the best. I contacted the airline's website and heard nothing. Then decided to try Twitter and got an immediate response. I guess it doesn't look good to have anything negative on their Twitter feed. They followed up on the missing bag and finally, after 18 days the bag arrived. I'm happy to say nothing was missing. 

I was finally able to bring my mother in law her gifts. She was happy with the creams and lotions, the shoes I got her fit perfectly and the cloth bread bag would be put to good use. The last thing she looked at was the handmade soap. She examined the package and asked me what it was. 'It's handmade soap. People make it at home to sell in farmer's markets.' I told her. Her eyes widened in surprise. 'Why would they make soap? Are people that poor in America that they are making soap? Can't they afford to buy Camay, Dove or Oil of Olay?' she asked. She was so surprised. 

I tried to explain that people find handcrafted goods a kind of luxury. They like that it's something that someone made with care and attention, usually from simple, organic ingredients, unlike commercially made things that are full of chemicals. My mother in law didn't look convinced. She turned the package over and over in her hand. I told her 'You don't have to use it if you don't want to. Smell it - it has a pleasant smell. You could put it in your wardrobe or in a drawer to keep things smelling nice.' She agreed that it smelled good, but I could tell she wasn't really convinced. To my mother in law, the handcrafted soap appeared cheap, not something you would give as a gift. Name brands are more important in Libya. Lesson learned - next time she'll be getting the name brand stuff - it costs a lot less! 

Not Enough Negative Adjectives or Expletives

It's taken me a few days to process the outcome of the US elections - lots of TV news to watch and articles to read on the Internet. Plenty to keep busy with on social media. Hillary won the popular vote, but Trump won the electoral vote. Many people are saying that the system should be changed and the vote should go with the popular vote. I noticed there were even some online petitions about it. For me, I would be happy if there was a requirement that every presidential candidate take and pass the FSOT - the Foreign Service Officers Test. I doubt Trump would be able to manage FSOT. There is an age limit that would have eliminated him right off the bat, but he doesn't have the brains for it. 

I've always felt that the president should be someone you looked up to. Someone dignified. Someone, that if you invited them to your home, would be considered an honored guest. Is Trump that person? Not for me. I don't think I'd even want him out in my back yard with the dog.  

The next four years will be interesting to say the least. 

What exactly am I doing here in Libya?

While I was away from Libya my cat Sandy took over my chair. She's saved my spot for a year. She doesn't want to move when I try to sit down so I sit on the edge of the chair. Eventually she gets up onto the desk and tries to interrupt me. She usually wins! How can I resist such a sweet kitty! 

I've sat  down a few times in front of my laptop and tried to write down my thoughts about life in Libya after being away. It's extremely difficult to come up with anything positive so I decided to wait and write about it later after I have time to process it all. 

What exactly have I been doing here? Well, I've spent most of my time at home with my family and pets. Visited a few friends and went to two family weddings. Sorted through things in the house. I'm getting paperwork and dental work done (cannot afford the dentist in the USA!). I'm taking lots of naps and watching lots of TV - especially the US election circus. 

Enough for today... time to snuggle with my kitty.